Cat-proof your home with common sense: any way that a toddler could get into trouble goes double for "Tiger"! Small objects that could be swallowed, toxic substances (medications, cleaning supplies, etc.), or breakables should be safely stored in cabinets with cat-proof doors. And remember that cats go barefoot and lick their feet clean; rinse thoroughly any surface you've cleaned with chemicals.

Cats and kittens more than six weeks old do not need milk. For the cat who truly craves dairy products, ask your veterinarian if a half teaspoon of milk or a small piece of cheese is acceptable as a treat. More will cause diarrhea in most cats.

To avoid litterbox issues later, pick a type of litter and, if your cat likes it, stick with it! Place at least one box for every cat in the house in quiet areas of your home, and leave them there. Scoop soiled litter every day and keep the area free from dogs and other intrusions that your cat will find unpleasant. No one likes to be disturbed while on the toilet; your cat is no exception. If he is disturbed often enough, he will elect to "do his business" elsewhere, like on the carpet or your bed. Prevention is the key to avoiding inappropriate elimination in cats.

Litterbox issues often stem from changes in the home. These can range from a different type of litter or a box hood to new furniture, new animals, new people or remodeling in the home. Keep your home as stress-free as possible, and make sure your cat gets plenty of appropriate play and exercise daily. Games that involve chasing, pouncing, and "killing" small toys will be the most effective, as they simulate the cat's natural drives.

Make grooming Tiger a regular, pleasant habit. Long-haired cats may need combing every day to prevent painful mats and knots, and even short-haired cats need a weekly brushing or combing. Include a quick inspection of ears and mouth (ask your veterinarian what to look for) and nail care (see SmartHeart pamphlet on claws). The more often you groom, the more your cat will relax and think of the sessions as opportunities for extra attention and heavy-duty stroking.

Have Tiger spayed or neutered as early as possible, usually between 6 and 8 months old. A spayed or neutered cat will be healthier, better behaved, and will live longer.

Why Do Cats Need Shots?

Protect Your Cat From Feline Diseases

Learn why tests and vaccinations are vital protection against:

Feline distemper & respiratory viruses
Rabies and Feline Leukemia (FeLV)
Feline Immunodeficiency virus (FIV)

To help your cat stay healthy and happy, you should both visit your veterinarian at least once every year. This annual visit is an opportunity for your cat to have a thorough physical examination.

However, the most important service provided by your veterinarian during this visit is the one your cat likes the least...those injections.

With a quick series of tests and vaccinations, your veterinarian protects your cat against serious, often fatal, feline diseases. As a concerned cat owner, you should know what these procedures provide for your cat. Your feline family member may be with you for 15 to 20 years (with regular health care and a safe, indoor lifestyle). You want every year to be a healthy one!

NOTE: If your cat does become ill, the cat may hide the symptoms...sometimes by actually hiding from you (under or behind a piece of furniture, for example). If you aren't aware that a problem exists and the cat isn't seen by a veterinarian, even the most simple illness can become serious.

Know your cat's habits, and be alert to any sudden change - especially eating habits, discharge from the eyes or nose, litter box behavior, or unusual hiding - and call your veterinarian immediately.

How do vaccinations work to protect my cat?

Vaccines for pets work like vaccines for humans.

A vaccination against a certain virus is actually a small, slightly altered dose of the virus itself. Your cat's body reacts to the vaccination by building up antibodies.
These antibodies circulate in the bloodstream and protect your cat against a real infection. These antibodies weaken and die after time. Therefore, an annual revaccination, or "booster" shot, is sometimes necessary every year to continue the protection.

With these injections, your veterinarian can help you and your cat avoid the pain, anxiety, and cost of many serious feline infections. And for some of these diseases, there is no treatment - only the prevention offered by vaccinations.
Vaccinations are necessary, inexpensive insurance. Even cats who live indoors can be exposed to infectious diseases and should be vaccinated regularly.

Is there a "basic" vaccination?

The primary vaccination your cat receives every year is a booster of the "kitten series" given when your cat was about six weeks old. This injection, known as FVRCP, is given to young kittens in a series of three or four visits, spaced at three-week intervals. An adult cat needs the single FVRCP booster every year.

The FVRCP protects your cat against feline distemper (see below), as well as the three most common upper respiratory infections: Chlamydia, Calici, and Rhinotracheitis.

EFFECT: Feline respiratory diseases are similar to a human cold or flu, causing sneezing, coughing, runny nose and eyes, fatigue, and general misery. Respiratory infections are highly contagious and can become chronic (permanent).

CAUSE: Respiratory diseases are spread through direct or indirect contact with a infected cat. Sick cats don't use tissues; they clean themselves with their paws and then spread the infection as they walk.

You should take the same precautions to prevent the spread of feline respiratory disease that you use to prevent spreading a cold among people - wash or disinfect all surfaces (including human hands) which may have been contaminated by the body fluids of the infected cat.

PREVENTION: However, a feline upper respiratory infection is much more serious than a human cold and lowers a sick cat's resistance to other diseases. Humans have no vaccine against the common cold; cats do have the FVRCP.

I didn't know that cats could get distemper. Can my cat catch distemper from my dog?

Feline distemper and canine distemper are not the same disease; cats and dogs cannot contract distemper from each other. Feline distemper (also known as panleukopenia or feline infectious enteritis) is a serious, potentially fatal, disease.

EFFECT: A cat with distemper suffers from diarrhea, vomiting, depression, and loss of appetite. The disease also destroys the white blood cells, leaving the cat with no immunity to other infections.

Feline distemper is highly contagious and very common and kills nine out of ten cats and kittens that contract the disease. It is particularly dangerous for young kittens.

CAUSE: The virus is often passed to unborn or nursing kittens directly from the mother cat. Feline distemper is also spread through the infected cat's body fluids and into the cat's litter box.

PREVENTION: This stubborn virus can live for months in almost any environment; therefore, the chances are very high that your cat will be exposed at some time to feline distemper. This is the most important reason for your cat to be protected with the FVRCP vaccination.

Do I need to vaccinate my cat against Feline Leukemia (FeLV)?

Yes. In the last decade, veterinary science has found effective prevention to be used against this cat-killer. Feline Leukemia (FeLV) is caused by a virus and takes different forms in infected cats.

EFFECT: One of the most frightening aspects of FeLV is the difficulty in identifying the infection from early symptoms. Loss of weight and condition, depression, and other general signs of illness may be the only signals.

The symptoms shown are usually those of other illnesses, which would normally be easy to combat. However, the immune system of a cat infected with FeLV cannot properly provide the normal resistance and protection against common infections.

A FeLV infected cat may develop tumors or cancer of the blood cells, or may die from complications of other feline diseases. Few cats which test positive for FeLV live more than three years past the original infection.

CAUSE: Feline leukemia can be transmitted from an infected mother cat to her kittens (before or after birth), or through contact with any infected cat's saliva, urine, feces, or blood. Such contact may be made directly, through licking or biting.

The virus is easily transmitted indirectly as well. When an FeLV cat sneezes, or licks itself, another cat can become infected by walking across the area where the infected cat has just been sitting, lying, or walking. The virus can also be transmitted through shared food or water dishes or litter boxes. Even a flea can carry infected blood from one cat to another.

It is unlikely that feline leukemia can be carried from cat to cat on a human's skin, clothing, or shoes. The virus does not live long on dry surfaces - no more than a few minutes. In a moist environment, it can live two or three days.

The FeLV virus is easily killed by most household disinfectant cleansers and soaps. (As always, use caution when using chemicals around your cat.)

Once a cat has contracted the FeLV virus, there are three levels of infection:

• An actively infected cat will actually show signs of feline leukemia.
• A transient infected cat will test positive for the disease but will appear to be healthy. In a few weeks the cat can develop immunity to the FeLV virus and so will test negative when retested at that time.
• A latent carrier remains healthy but still spreads the FeLV virus and will continue to test positive. In most cases, a latent carrier will eventually become ill if placed under stressful conditions.

PREVENTION: Feline leukemia has no proven treatment. However, the disease can usually be prevented by testing cats and kittens at nine to twelve weeks old with a simple blood test. Results are available at most veterinary clinics within thirty minutes.

If the test is negative, vaccinations should begin as soon as possible. The first time your cat is vaccinated for feline leukemia, the vaccine will be given twice within a three to four week interval. (The annual booster is a single injection.)

A cat who tests positive for feline leukemia should be isolated from other cats if at all possible, even if there are no symptoms at that time. (The positive cat does not need to be vaccinated because the vaccine can only prevent, not cure.)

What is "feline AIDS"? How can I protect my cat?

Both of the deadly cat diseases which involve failure of the immune system - Feline Leukemia (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV or "feline AIDS") - are surrounded by myths and misunderstandings. It is important that you understand the facts about the two diseases and how your cat can be protected against them.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is often mistakenly referred to as "feline AIDS."

IMPORTANT!!
FIV and FeLV are similar to the HIV/AIDS viruses in humans, but are strictly isolated to cats.

Cats cannot catch AIDS; humans cannot catch FIV or FeLV.

EFFECT: The FIV virus shuts down the immune system of an infected cat with damage and resulting illness similar to that of feline leukemia.

CAUSE: FIV is less contagious than FeLV but is spread through similar means, primarily blood and saliva (often from bites).

PREVENTION: A cat cannot develop an immunity to FIV, so the infection is lifelong. Research veterinarians are working to develop a safe, effective vaccine against FIV, but there is no preventative available at the present time. The spread of the disease can be reduced by testing all cats for FIV and by isolating infected cats.

Diagnosis is based on a positive blood test, and many veterinarians now use an FIV test that is combined with testing for FeLV. Ask your veterinarian about appropriate testing (and any future vaccinations) for your cat.

Does my cat need a rabies vaccination?

An annual rabies vaccination is required by law for every cat and kitten, beginning when the kitten is four months old. Even if your cat lives indoors, you and your cat need protection against rabies.

EFFECT: Rabies is a painful, fatal infection of the nervous system which affects warm-blooded animals...including humans. An infected animal will be stiff or paralyzed and will not be able to swallow properly (causing the heavy drooling we associate with a "mad," or rabid, dog).

The final stage of the disease causes intense sensitivity to noise and movement which causes the animal to behave abnormally out of pain. A sick animal, which would normally avoid pets and people, may approach and attack anything (or anyone) that moves.

CAUSE: The infection is spread through the saliva of an infected animal (usually a fox, skunk, raccoon, bat, cat, or dog), so your cat can be exposed to rabies by a bite or scratch. So can you!

PREVENTION: There is no cure for an unvaccinated cat infected by rabies; a vaccination is the only protection for you and your cat against this serious disease. And it's the law!

When You Take A Cat Home

Caring for Your New Cat or Kitten

Learn how to care for your cat by finding out about:

Choosing appropriate supplies and toys

Feeding, veterinary, and grooming needs

Making a smooth adjustment

Welcome to parenthood! You've added an important new member to your household. To make the adjustment over the next few weeks as smooth as possible for you both, please take a few minutes to review these "cat basics."

You'll need to have a few supplies on hand as you introduce your cat into your home:

• sturdy, tip-proof food and water dishes (for each pet in your family)
• a litter box for each cat in your home, cat litter, and a litter scoop
• high-quality dry cat food
• a scratching post
• nail clippers (designed for cats)
• a brush and/or comb appropriate for your cat's coat
• at least two safe toys: one to roll (ping-pong ball, plastic practice golf ball with holes, etc) and one soft toy to throw and wrestle with. An open paper bag is also a great toy! String and yarn are not safe for cats to play with. Check toys for insecure strings, sharp edges, and glued-on parts which could be swallowed

I want my cat to feel at home.

The first few days in a new home can be very stressful for a cat. Don't push. Help Tiger make a smooth transition by letting the cat set the pace.

Don't overwhelm Tiger with too many new people at first. Let the cat hide in a quiet room (equipped with water, litter box, and softly playing radio) if you have visitors. Tiger can meet your friends after a few days of adjustment. Remind them of basic cat-manners: let Tiger come to them.

Many cats are uncomfortable being picked up and held, but will sit happily in a lap for hours. Some prefer to cuddle up beside their person. Cats show affection in their own, individual ways. Let Tiger make the choice.

Petting and cuddling are important, but don't wear your cat out. Respect the need for rest and privacy. Tiger may even want to hide for a while. Tiger won't appreciate too much attention (unless it's Tiger's idea!) This may be difficult to enforce with young children around.

Help Tiger relax and feel confident about your home by providing creature comforts: warm places to curl up, perches to watch you from above, and access to window sills (with secure screens). If Tiger chooses a chair or couch as a favorite napping location, place a soft towel there. You can remove the towel when it's someone else's turn.

Tiger would also appreciate a safe, private place to "get away from it all:" under a couch, behind books on a shelf, or in the laundry hamper. Just be sure there's no chance Tiger can be shut in or injured, and that you know where the cat hides.

Routine is important to cats; they want to know what to expect. Establish a routine for feeding, litter box duty, and grooming and make sure these duties are performed as scheduled.

I want my cat to have clean habits.

Cats are clean animals. They bathe regularly (with their tongues), and they naturally seek a place to neatly deposit and bury their waste. But you do need to help with grooming and to provide a proper place to follow those "bathroom" instincts.

Make grooming Tiger a regular, pleasant habit. Long-haired cats may need combing every day to prevent painful mats and knots, and even short-haired cats need a weekly brushing or combing. Include a quick inspection of ears and mouth (ask your veterinarian what to look for) and nail care (see SmartHeartsm pamphlet on claws). The more often you groom, the more your cat will relax and think of the sessions as opportunities for extra attention and heavy-duty stroking.

Brushing Tiger will also help prevent hairballs. These mats of hair form in your cat's stomach and intestines from the hair swallowed during self-grooming. If the cat can't get rid of a hairball by vomiting or passing it into the litter box, it can cause dangerous blockage. Prevent hairballs with regular grooming and by dosing Tiger with a little petroleum jelly or mineral oil every week. Ask your veterinarian how, and how much, to dose your cat.

Place the litter box in a private, easy access/ easy-escape location. Avoid places in high-traffic areas or too near your cat's food or bed. Tiger won't like a parade around this important place.

Avoid litters and litter additives with heavy deodorants or perfumes which may offend Tiger's sensitive nose and cause your cat to reject the litter box. To help absorb odors, add a handful of baking soda to the bottom of the box.
Cover the bottom of the box with two to three inches of plain cat litter or scoopable sand litter. Too much litter will be wasted, and some cats (especially declawed cats) will be alarmed if their feet sink.

Keep the litter box clean by scooping out wastes at least once every day; twice is better. At least once a week, dump the litter into a strong garbage bag (not your toilet) and dispose of it. Even those sand litters advertised as "flushable" are not meant to be flushed in large amounts; read labels carefully. Wash the box with hot soapy water never strong detergents or bleach rinse and dry thoroughly, and add fresh litter.

I want my cat to eat right, but not be a finicky cat!

A high-quality dry food contains everything a cat needs, and the crunching helps to keep Tiger's teeth clean. Your veterinarian can recommend the right food and amounts for Tiger. Canned cat food makes a nice treat, but don't allow your cat to decide what and when to eat.

It's important to establish a routine by feeding Tiger at the same time and in the same place every day. Scheduled meals help you know how much Tiger eats and that the food is always fresh. In addition, making food available at all times ("free feeding") may encourage obesity.

Don't feed Tiger table scraps, raw meat, bones, or dog food...you'll have a begging, stealing, unhealthy cat! Feed Tiger foods designed for a cat's special dietary needs. Dog food and "people" food, even canned tuna, can destroy vitamins your cat's system needs for good health. And tuna is addictive! Any bones are, of course, very dangerous.

Provide a sturdy water bowl and keep the water fresh and clean. Empty, rinse, and refill the bowl every day. Make it a habit.

Cats and kittens more than six weeks old do not need milk. For the cat who truly craves dairy products, ask your veterinarian if a half teaspoon of milk or a small piece of cheese is acceptable as a treat. More will cause diarrhea in most cats.

I want my cat to be safe and active, but not too active!

Playing, watching, sleeping, and eating are your cat's life. Make them worthwhile. A bored cat is much more likely to be a problem child, hyper- active and destructive. Keep Tiger indoors with plenty to keep a cat's mind and body interested and active.

Cats spend a great deal of time resting, but they are also natural athletes. When they want to be active, help them channel that energy through safe play. Safe toys (see page 1), stairs for running on, and high safe shelves for a great view of the world will all give your cat access to play any time of the day...even when you're not home. A companion cat or dog might work off Tiger's natural energy (see SmartHeartsm pamphlet on pros and cons of adding a pet).

Windows offer cats a "natural TV." Be sure that Tiger has access to at least one window to watch, preferably with a tree outside. Squirrels, birds, people, and even breeze-blown branches offer interesting watching opportunities.

Cat-proof your home with common sense: any way that a toddler could get into trouble goes double for Tiger! Small objects that could be swallowed, toxic substances (medications, cleaning supplies, etc.), or breakables should be safely stored in cabinets with cat-proof doors. And remember that cats go barefoot and lick their feet clean; rinse thoroughly any surface you've cleaned with chemicals.

If you don't want Tiger jumping on counters or tables, teach that lesson early. "Booby trap" surfaces that are off-limits with double-sided tape, or the reverse side of adhesive shelf paper, which will feel unpleasant to Tiger's feet.

For the stubborn cat, plant a mousetrap under a THICK layer of newspaper so it will snap suddenly when Tiger lands on the paper. (Weight the edges or with masking tape so there is no danger of a paw getting into the trap.) The cat will soon learn that it's more fun to stay off of those surfaces.

Digging in house plants can be discouraged by covering the dirt with medium to large rocks, foil, pine cones, or small-mesh wire. Plant chewing is a much more serious problem. Many house plants are toxic to cats. Prevent problems by placing plants out of reach. Since Tiger is so skillful at climbing and jumping, that means they must be VERY out of reach, preferably hanging from the ceiling.

I want Tiger to live a long, healthy life.

Following the common sense methods above will help keep Tiger safe and healthy. But, like humans, cats need regular medical attention to prevent any problems and keep them healthy.

Tiger should visit your veterinarian annually for a check-up and vaccinations. An unvaccinated cat is vulnerable to viruses which attack the immune system and leave the cat weakened and sick. All of these vaccinations must be repeated every year (see SmartHeartsm pamphlet on cat health):

• Protect Tiger against feline distemper, "cat flu," and upper respiratory viruses with the FVRCP vaccination.
• By state law, your cat must be vaccinated against rabies by a licensed veterinarian.
• You should also ask your veterinarian about tests for and vaccinations against feline leukemia (FeLV) which kills thousands of cats every year.

Your veterinarian will also check Tiger for any internal parasites (tapeworms, roundworms, etc.) and treat your cat for any problems found during the exam.

Have Tiger spayed or neutered as early as possible, usually between at 6 to 8 months old. A spayed or neutered cat will be healthier, better behaved, and will live longer.

Fleas and other parasites are part of living with pets, but they don't have to be a threat to you or to Tiger if you take the proper precautions. Even a strictly indoor cat can have a flea problem.

Fleas can make your cat very ill: they irritate the skin, carry tapeworms, and can make Tiger anemic, lowering the cat's resistance to disease.

Part Tiger's hair with your fingers and look for signs of fleas: tiny, comma-shaped black droppings. You may even see moving fleas. If you find any of these signals, you need to take action to protect your pet.

So treat your home with sprays, powders, or foggers. Ask your veterinarian before using any product on or around your pet. Vacuum floors and upholstery thoroughly and often. Use a flea comb as part of your grooming sessions, and protect Tiger with safe, high-quality products. Read labels some flea-fighting products are dangerous for cats. Labels also tell you which products can be used together and how to use the products safely.

An important note for the family who wants a happy and healthy cat:
While a family pet offers children a wonderful opportunity to learn about responsibility and caring, regular pet-care duties must be carefully supervised by an adult.

Children forget. The responsibility for Tiger's care and safety is that of the adults in the home. Your cat is not a toy or a privilege to be used as a bargaining chip between parent and child.

The relationship between your cat and your child will be strengthened by your respect for Tiger's needs and feelings. Teach by example that Tiger is an important family member, not a toy to be neglected and tossed away when no longer new. What better way to teach responsibility?

We hope that your cat will be a member of your family for many years. Good luck to you both!

Kitten Kindergarten

Basic Manners for Kittens and Their People

Teaching your kitten how to:

Use the litter box

Play gently

Have safe and healthy habits

Welcome to parenthood! You and your kitten are about to experience a major life change together. The more patient and flexible you are, the more easily you and Tiger will adjust to each other. But the most important part of teaching Tiger good manners is to try and look at the world from a kitten's point of view.

Kittens are babies - physically, emotionally, and mentally immature. They're also busy growing, changing, and picking up clues about the world they live in.

They can't learn overnight the difference between appropriate behavior and what is naughty or dangerous. But they can begin to learn, just as young children can absorb information and language before they actually use them.

Your kitten wants to be with you, seeking a loving caretaker who will provide the same nurturing and lessons of a mother cat. Now you're the mom, so go ahead and teach!

Tiger plays too roughly with me, using sharp teeth and claws.
Tiger does need opportunities for rough play, but you shouldn't be the victim! Never encourage rough play with a person's hands or feet.

When wrestling with another kitten or cat, this kind of play would be accepted until it hurt the playmate. Then a sharp hiss, a swat, and "time-out" would send the message loud and clear just how much rough stuff is appropriate.

You can teach your kitten to play gently using the same methods:

Use slow, gentle movements whenever you touch a kitten. If Tiger becomes overly excited and bites or claws, you should freeze and firmly say "NO!" or hiss. Slowly and gently withdraw your hand. Ignore the kitten for at least five minutes to allowTiger to calm down.

Don't shout. It isn't necessary and it's frightening. Eye contact and a firm, deep voice are much more effective.

Give Tiger plenty of opportunities for wrestling with a kitten-sized soft toy or rolled sock (or a cat or kitten buddy!).

Keep Tiger indoors with plenty to keep a kitten's mind and body occupied. A bored kitten is much more likely to be a problem child, anti- social and destructive.

Cats are athletes and need opportunities to jump, climb, and run...safely! Cats also love to watch. Window sills are "natural TV," with birds squirrels, and breeze in the branches to watch. (Check that windows and screens are secure.)

I want my kitten to use the litter box.

Kittens naturally seek a place to neatly deposit and bury their waste. Your job is to provide Tiger with a proper way to follow that instinct.

Select a large, plastic litter box with sides low enough for the kitten to climb in and out. Provide one box for every cat in the household.

Avoid litters and litter additives with heavy deodorizers or perfumes which may offend Tiger's sensitive nose and cause your cat to reject the litter box. To help absorb odors, try adding a handful of baking soda to the bottom of the box.
Cover the bottom of the box with two or three inches of plain cat litter or scoopable sand litter. Too much litter will just be wasted and may actually frighten some kittens when their feet sink.

Keep the litter box clean by removing wastes at least once every day; twice is better. At least once a week, dump the litter into a strong garbage bag (not your toilet) and dispose of it. Wash the box with hot soapy water, rinse and dry it well, and add fresh litter.

Place the litter box in a private, easy-access/ easy-escape location. Avoid places in high-traffic areas or too near your cat's food or bed. Tiger prefers privacy, not a parade, around this important place.

Escort Tiger to the litter box four or five times a day for the first few days in your home. Set the kitten onto the litter and step away to give some privacy. Praise Tiger warmly for using the box or even just for digging.

Ideal opportunities for these reminders are when Tiger wakes up from naps, about ten minutes after meals, and after heavy play sessions.

If Tiger appears confused or nervous, make light digging motions in the litter with your fingers. Never scold or force the kitten to remain in the box. If Tiger associates the litter box with negative, frightening experiences - loud noises and voices or aggression - the kitten may avoid the litter box entirely.

I want my kitten to be affectionate with my family and confident with visitors.

Kittens have individual personalities, just like people, and will show affection in their own ways. Many cats are uncomfortable being held, but will sit happily in a lap for hours. Some prefer to cuddle up beside their person whenever possible.

With this in mind, kittens can and should be taught to be confident and relaxed with people:

Never force Tiger into the hands of strangers. Ask visitors to follow basic cat-manners: let the cat come to you. Especially for a shy cat or kitten, encourage floor-level greetings.

Emotional stimulation is important: that means holding, cuddling, petting, grooming, and talking...but not too much. Don't wear the kitten out, and respect the need for rest and privacy.

This is especially difficult to enforce with young children around, but an over-handled kitten could end up a stressed, antisocial cat.

Provide creature comforts to boost self- confidence. Warm places to curl up, perches to watch you from above, access to safe window sills, and at least one private place to hide...all help your cat relax and feel good about your home.

Groom Tiger regularly to help your kitten become accustomed to being handled. Long-haired cats need daily grooming sessions, and short-haired cats need a weekly brushing or combing. Always brush in the direction the hair grows.

Include a quick ear and mouth inspection (ask your veterinarian what to look for) and routine nail care (see SmartHeartsm pamphlet on claws). Help your kitten think of grooming as an excuse for extra attention and stroking; those sessions can be relaxing quality time for you both.

Routine is important to cats; they want to know what to expect. Make a schedule for feeding, litter box duty, and grooming. Decide who will be responsible for each job and make sure each task is performed as scheduled.

I want my kitten to eat right, but not be a finicky cat

It's important to establish a routine for feeding your kitten. Feed Tiger at the same time and in the same place every day. Scheduled meals help you know how much Tiger eats and that the food is always fresh. In addition, making food available at all times ("free feeding") may encourage overeating and obesity.

A high-quality dry food contains everything a cat needs, and the crunching helps to keep Tiger's teeth clean, but you will need to make sure Tiger gets enough water every day. Canned cat food contains more water and makes a nice treat, but don't allow your kitten to decide what and when to eat.

Feed Tiger a dry food meant for kittens, containing a balanced diet with the extra nutrition needed for healthy growth. Your veterinarian can recommend the right food and amounts to feed your growing kitten.

A kitten under ten weeks old may need to have a little warm water added to dry kitten food to moisten it and help tiny baby teeth chew.

Don't feed Tiger table scraps, raw meat, bones, or dog food...you'll have a begging, stealing, unhealthy cat! Even canned tuna destroys vitamins a cat's body needs for good health. And tuna is addictive!

Provide a water bowl and keep the water fresh and clean. Get into the habit of emptying, rinsing, and changing the water bowl daily. A clean water bowl will help keep Tiger away from vases, sinks, and toilets.

Kittens over six weeks old do not need milk. For the cat or kitten who truly craves dairy products, ask your veterinarian if a half teaspoon of milk or a tiny piece of cheese occasionally is acceptable as a treat. More will cause diarrhea in most cats.

I want my kitten to be safe and healthy.

Give your kitten a long, safe life with common sense and regular visits to your veterinarian.

Keep your home kitten-proof: any way that a toddler could get into trouble goes double for Tiger! Small objects that could be swallowed, toxic substances (medications, cleaning supplies, etc.), or breakables should be safely stored in cabinets with cat-proof doors.

String and yarn are not safe toys for kittens and cats! Check toys for insecure strings, sharp edges, and any glued-on parts that could be swallowed.

If you don't want Tiger jumping on counters or tables, teach that lesson early. "Booby trap" surfaces that are off-limits. Double-sided tape or foil feel unpleasant to Tiger's feet and the kitten will soon learn that it's more fun to stay off of those surfaces.

Digging in house plants can be discouraged by covering the dirt with medium to large rocks, pine cones, or small-mesh wire. Plant chewing is a much more serious problem; many house plants are toxic to cats. The safest plan is to prevent any problems by placing all plants out of reach. Since Tiger is skillful at climbing and jumping, that means VERY out of reach, preferably hung from the ceiling.

When Tiger is six to eight weeks old, it's time for the first visit to the veterinarian for a check-up and vaccinations. Kitten vaccinations are usually given in a series of three visits. All of these vaccinations should be repeated annually, along with an annual physical examination (see SmartHeartsm pamphlet on cat health).

Have Tiger spayed or neutered as early as possible, usually between six and eight months old. A spayed or neutered cat will be healthier, better behaved, and will live longer.

Fleas and other parasites are part of living with pets, but they don't have to be a threat to you or to Tiger if you take the proper precautions. Even a strictly indoor cat can have a flea problem...you bring them in! Fleas can make your cat very ill: they irritate the skin, carry tapeworms, and can make Tiger anemic, lowering the kitten's resistance to disease.

So treat your home with sprays, powders, or foggers. Vacuum your floors and upholstery thoroughly and often. Use a flea comb as part of your grooming sessions, and protect Tiger with safe, high-quality products. Be a label-reader - some flea-fighting products are dangerous for cats and/or kittens and their labels will say so; ask your veterinarian. Labels can also help you know what products you use are safe when used together.

An important note for the family who wants a happy, healthy kitten:

While a family pet offers children a wonderful opportunity to learn about responsibility and caring, regular pet-care duties must be carefully supervised by an adult.

Children forget. The responsibility for Tiger's care and safety is that of the adults in your home. Tiger is not a toy or a privilege to be used as a bargaining chip between child and parent.

The relationship between your kitten and your child will be strengthened by your respect for Tiger's needs and feelings. Teach by example that Tiger is an important family member, not a toy to be neglected and tossed away when no longer new. What better way to teach responsibility?

We hope that your kitten will be a member of your family for a long time. Indoor cats with responsible people can now live fifteen to twenty years!

Litter Box Blues

When Your Cat Won't Use The Box

You can retrain your cat by:

Finding the cause of the problem

Adjusting the environment

Changing behavior with positive methods

Cats are naturally clean animals, equipped with the desire to neatly deposit their waste and bury it. If your cat has started using places other than the litter box to urinate and/or defecate, then Tiger is trying to tell you something.

You and your cat share a problem which can be solved with a little detective work, some common sense, and time. Your job is to make the litter box as attractive to Tiger as possible and make the "accident" zone an UNattractive place to go.

STOP: Have you talked to your veterinarian about this problem?

The first and most important step to solving your cat's litter box problem is to rule out any physical reason for the situation. Tiger may be giving you signals that something serious is physically wrong; pay attention! A bladder or kidney infection, a blockage, or diabetes are possible causes and are all very dangerous. Your cat may need immediate medical attention.

After your veterinarian has eliminated the possibility of a physical cause for the situation, then you can begin to address it as a behavior problem.

Other than physical causes, the primary reasons for a cat to soil in places other than in the litter box are stress and conditions or negative memories of the box. Try to look at the situation from your cat's point of view. You cannot effectively correct the problem without knowing Tiger's reason.

What's wrong with Tiger's litter box?

The solution may lie in a simple adjustment which will make the box acceptable to your cat. Tiger may be avoiding the litter box because there is something about the box itself that is unpleasant, either now or in the past.

1. Is the box kept clean? While some cats are more tolerant than others, cats simply will not use a dirty box.

Remember: if you can smell the box, then the odor is certainly offensive to your cat.

ADJUSTMENT: Keep the litter box clean by scooping out wastes at least once every day; twice is better. At least once a week, dump the litter into a strong garbage bag - not your toilet - and dispose of it. Wash the box with hot soapy water (never strong detergents, ammonia, or bleach), rinse and dry thoroughly, and add fresh litter. To help absorb odors and make clean-up easier, try a layer of baking soda in the bottom of the box.

The frequency of your box-cleaning routine depends partially on the number of cats in your home, the quality of their food, and Tiger's and your own tolerance of odor.

In general, if the box still has an odor an hour after you have scooped out the most recent wastes, it's time to dump the whole box and start with fresh litter.

2. Does Tiger feel safe in the box? Your cat doesn't want a parade around the litter box. After all, a cat using the box is in a vulnerable position!

ADJUSTMENT: Place the box in a private location, avoiding places too near Tiger's food or bed, or in high-traffic areas. This place should be easy-access and easy-escape, so your cat can see any potential danger approaching. If you have other pets (or young children) in your home, Tiger may be getting ambushed in the litter box!

If you change the location of the box, do it gradually. Move it four or five feet each day toward the new location, where you can place an additional box temporarily to help Tiger adjust.

3. How many litter boxes are in your home? In a large home, or even a small one with more than one level, one box may not be easily available to your cat (especially if Tiger is overweight or over eight years old). And if you have more than one cat in your family, Tiger may not like using a box with another cat's smell (and the "top cat" may not want Tiger to use it!).

ADJUSTMENT: You need at least one box per cat in your home, and two per cat if you have much space in your home: upstairs and downstairs, at the very least.

4. Do you use plastic liners in the box? Some people like the convenience of a plastic bag-style liner in the litter box. However, many cats dislike the movement of the slick liner beneath their paws when they scratch to bury their waste. And if Tiger's claws scratch through the plastic, the liner will leak dirty litter when you change it...which defeats the purpose of using it!

ADJUSTMENT: Especially if your cat is an enthusiastic digger-and-scratcher, try a week or so without plastic liners. You'll probably find that Tiger much prefers to feel a stable, sturdy box. (If you must line the box, try newspaper.)

5. Do you use a covered litter box? Hooded litter boxes are for human convenience - it hides the "view." Some cats like the privacy of the hooded box. However, many others feel insecure because they can't see approaching surprises.
The hood also tends to hold in odors. Even a fairly clean box can smell offensive to Tiger as odors collect under the hood. And, unfortunately, a covered box is often a forgotten box. The less frequently the litter box is cleaned, the more smells will collect and Tiger may refuse to enter it.

ADJUSTMENT: Take the hood off of the box. If you and Tiger want added privacy, try putting the litter box into a large cardboard box with three high sides and no top. Cut out the front to leave an entrance into the litter box.

6. Is Tiger drowning in litter? Your cat needs enough litter to dig in and to cover waste. Too much litter is simply wasted, and some cats (especially declawed cats) will be alarmed if their feet sink.

ADJUSTMENT: Cover the bottom of the box with only two to three inches of plain or scoopable sand litter.

7. Are you using perfumed litter or additives? Have you frequently switched litter brands or types? Perfumed or deodorized litters can offend your cat's sensitive nose and cause Tiger to reject the litter box. Changing back and forth between litters is confusing and stressful for your cat.

ADJUSTMENT: Find a plain, low-dust litter that Tiger likes and stick with it. It will be more attractive to Tiger and cheaper for you!

(NOTE: An alternative may be one of the soft, "scoopable" sand litters. Read the label and follow the instructions carefully; you still must empty the litter box regularly. To avoid sand being spread throughout your home, put a piece of indoor/ outdoor carpeting or "welcome" mat beside the box to help wipe excess sand from Tiger's paws.)

8. Could this be stress-related behavior, not directly connected to the box? As you look for the cause of your cat's behavior, keep in mind that Tiger may be upset about a change in your home. When the first "accident" occurred, was anything different happening in your life - good or bad? Tiger may have reacted to that stress, change, or commotion. (Our library has more information available regarding stress-related behavior in pets.)

Even if things have now calmed down, the urine mark remains from the initial problem. You will still need to use the following steps to eliminate the leftover evidence and to retrain Tiger..

How do I remove the odor from the "accident" zone?

As long as your cat can smell that personal scent, Tiger will continue to return to the "accident" zone. Even if you can't smell traces of urine, Tiger can. Your most important chore is to remove (neutralize) that odor.

Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove (especially from carpeting) before it dries, the simpler it will be to remove the odor.

Place a THICK layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove and discard the padding, check the area for dampness, and repeat if necessary.

Rinse the affected zone thoroughly with water; blot. Then use one of the high-quality pet odor neutralizers available at pet supply stores; try to find one specifically made for cat urine odors. Test the affected surface for staining first, and READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

If you have previously used cleaners of any kind (including natural substances like vinegar) on the area, then the neutralizer will not be effective unless you rinse every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. For old or heavy stains in carpeting, consider renting an extractor (NOT steam cleaner) from a local hardware store. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is an efficient, economical (around $20) rinsing method.

Following the machine's instructions, use the extractor to run plain, clean water through the carpet and pad, soaking thoroughly and vacuuming the dirty water back into the machine.

OK, the zone is clean. Can I keep Tiger from returning to that location?

You must make the "accident" zone unattractive for Tiger to use as a substitute litter box. It may take some trial and error to find the right repellent for your cat, but these are some suggestions:

Choose an odor that Tiger strongly dislikes: good possibilities are lemon juice, tabasco sauce, citrus-based cologne, strong pepper, or mothballs in mesh bags. After testing a small area that doesn't show, rub or spray a few drops into the zone where Tiger usually urinates.

If the surface will stain, soak a washcloth in the chosen odor. Place the cloth on a piece of foil over the entire "accident" zone, anchoring with tape or weights.

Cover the zone with a texture Tiger doesn't like underfoot. Try aluminum foil or heavy plastic (a dropcloth is ideal), since most cats dislike urine to pool up around their feet. Either kind of covering must be secured with tape or weights and should cover the entire marked zone. Otherwise, Tiger will simply move the obstacle aside.

Strips of double-sided carpet tape or a large piece of adhesive shelf paper (reverse side up) will feel sticky and unpleasant to Tiger's feet without actually pulling out hair or causing pain.

Most cats will not urinate in a place where they eat, sleep, or play regularly. Try playing with Tiger near the zone or leaving a handful of dry food on an anchored piece of foil.

This alternative does not combine well with the negative methods (above); choose one or the other.

What won't work: Spraying Tiger with water, shouting, or throwing handy objects are not effective methods of correcting bad habits in cats. Tiger will simply urinate where you can't see, or use that favorite zone when you aren't around!

What else should I do to encourage Tiger to use the box?

You now have the right conditions, if you followed the advice above, to retrain Tiger to use the litter box. Tiger may figure out the new, positive arrangements immediately. But if the habit is old, or the unpleasant memories of the box are too strong, you may have to convince Tiger that the litter box is a great place!
The retraining period may take a week or more. It took time to build the bad habit, and it will take time to build a new one. Treat your cat with patience and lots of encouragement.

Escort Tiger to the litter box four or five times a day for the first few days of the retraining period. Ideal opportunities for these reminders are after heavy play sessions, after Tiger wakes up from naps, and ten to fifteen minutes after meals.
Set your cat into the litter and step away to give some privacy. Praise Tiger warmly for using the box or even just for digging. You may want to add a small treat to your praise (but not every time; staggered treat-times keep Tiger interested).

Never scold or force your cat to remain in the litter box. If Tiger seems confused or nervous, dig lightly in the litter with your fingers. Talk softly and calmly, using Tiger's name.

When you're away from home or unable to supervise your cat's "bathroom" habits, keep Tiger's world small, secure, and without temptations! Isolate Tiger in a friendly room with:

• a clean litter box
• a water bowl
• a favorite toy
• a radio, set at low volume
• a window (if possible)
• a soft nest

The room should be large enough that the litter box is clearly separated from the nest and water.

Spend a few minutes talking and stroking Tiger in the "time-out" room each time you isolate your cat -- before and after.

After a few days, put a small rug into the room as a test. If your cat still uses the litter box faithfully, even with this temptation, you can release Tiger for longer periods of time.